Support

General FAQ’S

Can I test ride a bike?

We are a direct -to-consumer eBike company both in pricing and strategy. You will generally pay a premium for the ability to test ride. Due to our direct to consumer pricing strategy, we do not have nationwide dealer partnerships. There are some very helpful videos on YouTube reviewing the bike and detailing a closer look. We do offer a 30-day money back guarantee (see terms).

 

Does the bike come fully assembled?

No, our bikes will come 90% assembled. The fork, handlebars, crank arm, front wheel, seat and pedals will be separated for shipping. We recommend you have them installed by a professional, or if you follow the manual and install yourself, please have it checked prior to riding by a bike mechanic. If you plan to assemble yourself, you should be comfortable with basic mechanics, and please watch our assembly video and read about common issue on our support page before attempting assembly. Self-assembly needs to be signed-off on by a bike shop or mobile mechanic for warranty coverage.

 

Can you ship to _______?

We are able to ship all over North America. For Europe and Asia, you can use a company called Shop USA to forward to your country. Unfortunately we are not able to ship our bikes directly to Europe.

 

Will this bike fit me?

Due to the drop-down frame style, this bike is a great fit for riders 5’4”-6’5”. We currently offer only one size and it does fit most (between the range listed) rider heights. Our next model under development will have two sizes. The sizing is based on typical inseam length with a step-over height of 28". See sizing image on Support page, Ordering.

 

Are the bikes water-proof?

The bikes are not water-proof, they are water-resistant, rated IP-65. While we do not recommend leaving the bikes out in the rain or riding in the rain or other hazardous conditions due to personal safety, the bikes can handle water exposure.

 

Can I buy other batteries, and are they easy to switch?

Yes. The 500 series uses a generic Reention Dorado battery integration system. This is not our exclusive technology, and there are several brands who sell the same battery packs. We do sell replacement batteries on the parts section of our website. The 17.5ah battery upgrade is only available as a separate purchase.

The 700 series uses a Reention Rhino battery integration system. This is not our exclusive technology, and there are a few other brands who sell the same battery packs. We also sell replacement batteries under the parts section of our website.

 

What is the expected lifespan of the battery?

This depends significantly on how the battery is maintained. Under healthy conditions, the battery is rated for 800 cycles. This could last 5 years or longer depending on use and storage/care of your battery. Additionally, regarding charging batteries, they can be charged on or off the bike and has its own LCD gauge for charge levels.

 

Can I buy a replacement battery?

We do sell replacement batteries for $299! Double the range and swappable in 10 seconds! Literally. Replacement batteries can be found on the parts section of our website. The 17.5ah battery upgrade is only available as a separate purchase.

 

Does the bike need to be charged when it first arrives?

The battery will likely arrive 80% charged. ONLY USE THE CHARGER PROVIDED. Using another charger could cause serious damage. Whenever the battery is drained below 30%, be sure to recharge immediately and not store the battery with no charge as this will cause a reduced life of your battery.      

 

What battery is used on the 500 series?

The Ride1UP 500 series uses LG M26 18650 Lithium Ion batteries in a Reention Dorado 48V enclosure which is among the most widely available electric bike battery packs in the United States. It also includes a USB charger port for charging bike add-ons or your phone.

 

What is the realistic range of the 500 series?

The range is affected by a variety of factors; wind, surface, rider weight, tire pressure, bike tuning, surface grade, and by the amount of pedal assist. If you are 170lb rider using only the throttle without pedaling on a smooth surface with no headwind, you can expect a range of 25 miles. Pedal assist high: 25 miles. Pedal assist low - 50 miles.

 

Is replacing a flat tire difficult with a hub motor?

Not with our bikes. We have a disconnect cable right along the chain stay, so the rear wheel with the motor can be taken off and serviced with the only added difficulty being the disconnection of the cable.

 

What is the maximum weight limit?

All of our eBikes are rated for rider weight up to 275lbs.

 

What's the difference between the 500 and 700 series bikes?

We've summarized some of the pros and cons of each model in this article.  https://ride1up.com/which-ebike-is-right-for-you/

 

What is included with each bike?

The 500 series bikes will come with an attached front headlight, a set of keys for the battery, a charger, a kickstand, a user manual, and safety instructions. Please learn the bikes equipment prior to first use.

 

Instructional Guides

Video Guides

700 Series:

Assembly:

 

Display Functions:

 

Controller Access:

 

Error 25:

 

500 Series:

Display Settings;

Internal Controller Access;

Assembly:

General:

Removing the Rear Wheel

 

3rd Party Videos:

Disc Brake Adjustment

Disc Rotor Truing

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Owners

Basic Operation

The 500 series will arrive 3-button lcd display installed. The middle button turns on and off the bike. Simply hold the button down. (Note: There is a button on the battery as well, which only functions as a battery charge gauge.) The + button increases pedal assist and the – button decreases pedal assist and can be set to off if you press the – button when on low. The headlight is turned on by holding the + button. The throttle and pedal assist can be used simultaneously and as well, either can be turned off. The throttle power is not affected by the pedal assist setting. You can turn the pedal assist off by pressing the “-“ button past low, til no light is showing, and only ride using the throttle if you like. The bike pedal assist uses a cadence sensor, which reacts a little delayed based on the spinning of the pedals. It will take some time to get used to this and manipulating the motor to engage and disengage when expected takes a little practice. A quick backpedal or slight engage of the brake lever instantly stops the motor. You can adjust the sensitivity of the pedal assist with the display settings. The video explaining how to do this is listed under 'Support Videos'.

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Owners

Required Maintenance

Battery Health: How to Get More Out of Your Battery

30-80 Rule

As much as possible keep your battery between the 30-80% charge level. This simple rule can double the effective lifetime of your battery

Mild Temperatures 

Avoid temperature extremes! Very hot or cold temperatures can negatively affect the performance of the battery and shorten its expected life.  Recommended storage temperatures are 32F – 77F. Avoid exposing the battery to extreme heat, 104F + for long periods of time.

Storing Your Bike/Battery

If storing, it is a good idea to store your battery with a 80% charge.  After 3 months, it’s a good idea to check the charge level of your battery. Do not store your battery plugged in! 

Bike Components

Spokes

Avoid broken spokes! Spoke tension is more important for electric bikes with hub motors as the immense torque from the hubs can leave you with broken spokes if your spoke tension is off.

Check all your spokes on a regular basis, especially when new, as some seating and mating of the connect points takes place and can make the spokes loose. This especially exacerbated with greater rider weight; 180lbs and above is going to accelerate the wearing in process and spokes are bound to loosen.

If you don’t want to take the bike to a shop or buy a tool to measure the tension, you can use the sound method to check tension.The tap-tap-tap ting-sound of spoke tuning is an easy thing to learn - you can hear the thud sound from a loose spoke. Give it a quarter turn and tap it again - all spokes should sound fairly close to the same. You also don't want to over-tighten or you'll pull the rim out of true. If you are able to measure with a tool, here are the specs:

Spoke Tension

Rear wheel, 12G spoke:

Left side 114-130kgs (Park tool, it should show 33-34 on tool)

Right side 150-172kgs (Park tool, it should show 35-36 on tool)

Front wheel, 13G spoke:

Left side 133-151kgs(Park tool, it should show 30-31 on tool)

Right side 104-117kgs(Park tool, it should show 28-29 on tool)

Spoke Length

700C:  Rear wheel:  12G 238mm, 12G 240mm

27.5inch: Rear wheel:  12G 220mm, 12G 222mm

Chain:

Don’t wait until your chain/ drivetrain gets noisy to check it out! You can extend the life of your drivetrain by reducing the amount of metal on metal contact! A lubed chain will not only make your pedaling smoother, but will make the chain glide up and down the gears smoother.

Shifting:

It is also important to routinely have your shifting mechanism tuned up by professionals, or become an expert yourself by watching a few helpful YouTube videos. Being able to smoothly shift into every gear is important for the life of the cassette, chain, and derailleur! If things aren’t lined up correctly, it can cause premature wear on components.

Helpful Video: https://youtu.be/On57Tl9qYRM

Brakes:

The importance of having your brakes dialed in is not only to be able to slow/ stop the bike when needed, but also to ensure none of the braking components are rubbing,  which will wear down your rotors/ pads faster and ultimately make you slower! 

Helpful Video: https://youtu.be/Ym8mreUhelQ

Tires:

Check your front and rear tire pressure often. You should pump up your tires at least once or twice a week, or before every ride if you don't go out that often. Some bike tires have been known to lose pressure after 4-5 days of sitting still.

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Owners

Common Issues

500 Series

  • Loose Crankarm - The left crank arm is removed during shipping. When installing it is important to tighten the crank arm completely to 37nm of torque, or if you are not able to measure, have someone strong hand tighten as much as possible with a strong 8mm hex wrench. If the crank arm bolt is not tighten enough, the crank arm bolt may loosen over time and damage your crank arm.
  • Damaged on Arrival - Email support@ride1up.com for the fastest resolution. We can either mail out replacement parts, order them somewhere closer, refund the cost of a part acquired locally, or find another custom tailored solution depending on the problem at hand.
  • Throttle or Pedal Assist Not Working - Motor not working. One of the worst problems to experience. What needs to be done? Determine the source, or cause of the issue(s). What to look for:

-Settings; Perhaps a setting is off. Try resetting the display to the default settings. This varies depending on the model of bike, but display instructions can be found under 'Support Videos'.

-Cables; Is a connection loose? Look for kinked or loose or damaged cables. Check the quick disconnect connections, especially the one of the chainstay. Consider plugging them back in and ensuring pins are not bent

- Loosing power? Is the motor issue due to a loss of power or is the display and headlight maintaining power while the motor is not working? If the display is turning off, the problem is either with the internal controller, the battery, or the display itself.

- EBS; Electronic Brake Shut-off. Another possible cause is that the electronic brake shut off sensors are firing when they shouldn’t be. This can happen typically when there is damage to the brake levers or the cables themselves causing a miscommunication with the internal controller. The best way to identify if this is the issue is to you unplug these cables from the internal controller and test. You can also find videos explaining this issue and how to access the internal controller under 'Support Videos'

  • Kickstand. - Does the bike sit too low with the kickstand? The kickstand length is adjustable. Loosen the bolt on the bike and slide to the desirable length. Check the bolt tension when first assembling as well to make sure the bolt does not rattle loose. Is there a clicking noise with the kickstand? Make sure it is parallel with the chainstay and fully tightened (8mm hex wrench). If it shifts, it will hit the crank arm when pedaling.
  • Charger. - Green light indicates the charger is powered but not charging. Red light, charging. Do not charge near anything flammable or store long-term the bikes plugged in. If you are having issues with the battery not charging, try riding the bike again, draining some battery and try using a different outlet. Then reach out to support.
  • Derailleur/Gears. - Adjusting the gears on a bike so that there is no chain noise can be tricky for a novice. If you are not able to take the bike to a local shop, this is the absolute best guide we have seen in thoroughly explaining how to dial in year gears, check for issues, and ensure a silent chain and easy shifting.
  • Disc Brakes. How you install the front wheel can affect whether the disc brakes rub when first assembling. Look inline with the brake pads and slowly tighten the quick release axle while ensuring the rotor stays in the exact middle between the pads. The disc rotor is one of the most exposed malleable components during shipping. If it is bent, it can sometimes be trued (bent back) or replaced with a new disc rotor. You may also need new pads, but not likely within 1000 miles.
  • Fenders. If you are experiencing rubbing or rattling fenders, this can be fixed. Firstly, the front fender tab that attaches to the fork can be mounted on the back to provide more spacing, or the front for a tighter fit. The fender arms are also malleable and sometimes need to be bent with the wheel off to be centered with the wheel.
  • Noise when riding. Fenders, gears, brakes, the bottom bracket and cadence sensor are the most common sources of riding noise. Additionally, the front hub can sometimes make a squeaking noise if it does not have enough grease/oil. Pay attention to the noises. They are usually symptomatic of a minor issue that could cause more problems later on. 

700 Series

  • Error Code - Check under 'error codes' on this page to identify the cause of the issue. The error code will be shown on the bottom of your bikes display.
  • Damaged on Arrival - Email support@ride1up.com for the fastest resolution. We can either mail out replacement parts, order them somewhere closer, refund the cost of a part acquired locally, or find another custom tailored solution depending on the problem at hand.
  • Throttle or Pedal Assist Not Working - Motor not working. One of the worst problems to experience. What needs to be done? Determine the source, or cause of the issue(s). What to look for:

-Settings; Perhaps a setting is off. Try resetting the display to the default settings. This varies depending on the model of bike, but display instructions can be found under 'Support Videos'.

-Cables; Is a connection loose? Look for kinked or loose or damaged cables. Check the quick disconnect connections, especially the one of the chainstay. Consider plugging them back in and ensuring pins are not bent

- Loosing power? Is the motor issue due to a loss of power or is the display and headlight maintaining power while the motor is not working? If the display is turning off, the problem is either with the internal controller, the battery, or the display itself.

- EBS; Electronic Brake Shut-off. Another possible cause is that the electronic brake shut off sensors are firing when they shouldn’t be. This can happen typically when there is damage to the brake levers or the cables themselves causing a miscommunication with the internal controller. The best way to identify if this is the issue is to you unplug these cables from the internal controller and test. You can also find videos explaining this issue and how to access the internal controller under 'Support Videos'

  • Kickstand. - Does the bike sit too low with the kickstand? The kickstand length is adjustable. Loosen the bolt on the bike and slide to the desirable length. Check the bolt tension when first assembling as well to make sure the bolt does not rattle loose. Is there a clicking noise with the kickstand? Make sure it is parallel with the chainstay and fully tightened (8mm hex wrench). If it shifts, it will hit the crank arm when pedaling.
  • Charger. - Green light indicates the charger is powered but not charging. Red light, charging. Do not charge near anything flammable or store long-term the bikes plugged in. If you are having issues with the battery not charging, try riding the bike again, draining some battery and try using a different outlet. Then reach out to support.
  • Derailleur/Gears. - Adjusting the gears on a bike so that there is no chain noise can be tricky for a novice. If you are not able to take the bike to a local shop, this is the absolute best guide we have seen in thoroughly explaining how to dial in year gears, check for issues, and ensure a silent chain and easy shifting.
  • Disc Brakes. How you install the front wheel can affect whether the disc brakes rub when first assembling. Look inline with the brake pads and slowly tighten the quick release axle while ensuring the rotor stays in the exact middle between the pads. The disc rotor is one of the most exposed malleable components during shipping. If it is bent, it can sometimes be trued (bent back) or replaced with a new disc rotor. You may also need new pads, but not likely within 1000 miles.
  • Fenders. If you are experiencing rubbing or rattling fenders, this can be fixed. The front fender tab that attaches to the fork can be mounted on the back to provide more spacing, or the front for a tighter fit.
  • Noise when riding. Fenders, gears, brakes, the bottom bracket and cadence sensor are the most common sources of riding noise. Additionally, the front hub can sometimes make a squeaking noise if it does not have enough grease/oil. Pay attention to the noises. They are usually symptomatic of a minor issue that could cause more problems later on. 

 

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Owners

Error Codes

 

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Ordering

What to Expect

Ordering with Us

We are a manufacturer direct-to-consumer company. This means you will get better prices without a middleman. However, there are some trade-offs to be aware of.

What to Expect

When ordering a direct to consumer electric bike, there is always the potential for mechanical or electric issues. Most of our bikes are delivered without issue, but the following could occur:

-          Bent Disc rotors, or other. (more common) 5%

-          Minor Scratches in shipping. (more common) 5%

-          Connections come loose in transit or assembly. (less common) 4%

-          Component breaks in transit or assembly. (less common) 3%

-          Software/firmware glitch missed in testing. (least common) 2%

This list of possible problems isn’t meant to scare you. Our customer support team will always work to deliver a perfectly functioning bike and send parts as needed. However, in purchasing a direct-to-consumer eBike, your willingness to troubleshoot and submit evidence of issues for our team to determine the most appropriate course of action is needed. If you are not willing to work through a possible issue, buying from a local bike shop might be the best option for you.

 

A Mechanic Required?

You may have read on our warranty terms that proof of assembly by a professional is required for warranty coverage. Why? Incorrectly assembling your fork, front wheel, brakes, or cranks (if needed) can lead to many annoyances, noises, and future problems. These issues are completely avoidable with proper bike assembly. If you are not familiar with these components, it’s best to find someone who is to avoid causing additional headaches. If you are new or just reentering the world of cyclery, it is a very good idea to find a mechanic you can trust to help maintain your bike(s) over the years.

 

Why Order an eBike Online

Pros

The quality-to-price ratio is unbeatable. We use better components than any similarly priced bike.

The convenience. Aside from assembly, it is quite convenient to have your eBike delivered to your door.

Cons

Service issues. As an online company, our repairs and diagnostics also have to be done online, via email.

Timeline. Purchasing from a shop will typically be faster if you need something right away.

Timeline

When our bikes are in stock, we deliver very quickly. However, if there are possible issues as mentioned above, it may take some additional time to deliver parts as needed. If you cannot allow the possibility of waiting for parts or troubleshooting (in rare cases) then buying an eBike locally might be the best option for you.

Summary

If you are looking for white glove service and are unfamiliar with bikes and not willing to learn about them, ordering from us is not recommended. While we do everything we can to give every rider a positive experience, having transparent expectations is important. We cannot guarantee every bike delivered be without issue. If you are unwilling to troubleshoot the issues listed in this article with our friendly support staff via email, we might not be the best option for you.

We want your bike to last a lifetime. With proper care, knowledge, and expectations, our bikes are built to be the last bike you ever need to buy. Parts will need to be replaced along the way, and it will pay-off in the long run to learn about the needs of your new source of transportation and joy.

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Ordering

Shipping

Shipping Cost

Shipping within the Continental United States is FREE.

Shipping to Hawaii and Alaska is $190 per bike

Shipping to Canada is $100 per bike. Sales to Canada are in USD and the importer may or may not face import duty charges depending on Canadian customs. (We have experienced variable enforcement.)

Shipping to Mexico is $100 per bike. Sales to Mexico are in USD and the importer may or may not face import duty charges depending on Canadian customs. (We have experienced variable enforcement.)

Shipping to Europe. Unfortunately, we are not able to ship our bikes directly to Europe. You can use a shipping forwarder like ShopUsa.com to reach your country.

Shipping Timeline.

We ship same business day UPS, FedEx, or GSO if ordered before 12pm PST.

Shipping Method and Tracking

We select the lowest rate ground shipping in the United States. We allow multiple shippers to compete against each other to offer the lowest shipping price. Therefor, we typically cycle between GSO.com (west coast), FedEx and UPS depending on who offers the lowest rate. Within 1 business day of receiving your order we will email you an 'Order Complete' email which contains your tracking information. Please use this number to track your shipment and have someone available during the delivery date to reduce the risk of package theft.

Shipping Savings

One of the reasons we are able to offer an unbeatable value compared to most competition is due to our shipping methodology.  We spend a bit more than most on packing our bikes as securely as possible into a box that is smaller than any eBike boxes you are likely to see (short of folding bikes). Our compact packing allows us to ship with domestic carriers under their oversize packing restrictions and other extra surcharges that other eBikes would otherwise face. This allows us to save considerably in our shipping costs. Guess what? We pass those savings directly onto to you. No one wants more of their eBike budget going to the shipping companies, so we do everything possible to avoid that.

 

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Ordering

Sizing

We have a sizing chart on every product page. It is pretty easy to find a comfortable fit if you are taller than the recommend height, but not if you are shorter. We do not recommend shorter riders trying to fit on a taller bike. If you are taller than the recommended height, consider a higher angle stem or adjustable stem upgrade, and also an extended seat post. All necessary dimensions are listed on the bike product pages.

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Ordering

Pre-orders (If item is out of stock)

Pre-orders are charged at the time of ordering. The product will be listed “On Back Order" or "Out of Stock".  While we understand it is frustrating to wait for a product you are excited about, we will make your order a priority, and we do promise to deliver within a 3-month time frame, unless otherwise specified as sooner. You can contact us at any time before your order is shipped for a refund. Refunds before shipping will be subject to a 3% payment processing charge (this is a charge we do not get back).

Benefits of pre-ordering: Sales prices are always temporary. By pre-ordering, you will be early in-line and thus oftentimes receive a better sales price than those who did not pre-order.

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Customer Care

Returns

30-day return policy. Within 30 days, if you are not satisfied with the bike for any reason, please contact our support team, support@ride1up.com. We will provide you the correct address for return shipping if you have not damaged the bike, you will receive 100% refund. We do not charge a restocking fee, but we will deduct the cost of cleaning and repairing any aspects of the bike that were damaged of left dirty by the buyer returning the bike. Buyer is responsible for the cost of return shipping. Buyer is also responsible for safely packaging and returning the bike to us. If you have damaged or failed to safely package the bike, we will deduct the damages from the refund. We suggest keeping the original packing material and box until you are sure the bike is the right fit for you. This way you will be able to safely repackage and re-secure the bike for return shipping.

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Customer Care

Warranty info

Each new Ride1UP electric bike comes with a limited manufacturer’s warranty for the original retail purchaser. This warranty provides each original retail purchaser of a Ride1UP eBike with a warranty against manufacturer’s defects only.

 

Warranty claims only exist for initial faults that were already present at the time of handover. Ride1UP grants a 1-year guarantee for manufacturing defects only.

 

If your product is shipped to you and arrives damaged, please contact us directly by phone or e-mail within 3 working days from the date of delivery. Please note that any damage caused by shipping is not covered by any warranty, however a claim may be filed with the shipping company and we will work together to resolve damaged goods on arrival. Minor scratches to components don't necessitate replacement or any refund, but for major aesthetic damage a credit may be issued, or replacement sent if the item is functionally damaged. We will not cover any damage caused when owner sets up their own shipping option including using a freight forwarding or similar service.

 

Ride1UP reserves the right to determine if the product has been operated in accordance with the products intended use and whether user error and or neglect is the cause for the product damage or failure. Ride1UP may require video and photographic submissions to review each warranty claim.

 

This warranty shall be effective only if all the following conditions are met:

 

If the bike was purchased directly from Ride1up.com or one of our authorized retailers.

If you are the original and first owner of the bike (warranty is not transferable)

If the bike has followed all intended use purposes

If the electronics have not been repaired or modified.

If the bike was assembled or reviewed prior to use by a bike mechanic. Proper professional assembly is required for upholding the Limited Warranty. We will require proof of professional assembly or a post-assembly sign-off by a bike professional for warranty coverage to be applied.

Rider and purchaser is 18 years of age or over and possesses the legal capacity and authority to purchase and ride an eBike.

The bike is ridden only on paved roads and trails. Using the bike for any other purpose may result in serious injury.

Maximum total weight of rider including any cargo is at all times below 275lbs.

 

WARRANTY EXCLUSIONS

The warranty applies only to customers purchasing in the contiguous United States. No other party other than Ride1UP may change the terms. This WARRANTY DOES NOT COVER THE FOLLOWING:

Normal wear and tear from use or exposure to the elements.

Damage or failure from abuse, neglect, misuse, or accident.

Damage or failure from modification of any of the bikes systems.

Damage or failure of any part of the electrical system resulting from improper storage or charging of the battery. Improper charging of the battery could cause serious external damage to persons or property.

Installation of any 3rd party parts, accessories, or electrical components.

Lost or damaged keys to the bike are not covered by warranty.

All warranties are void if used for any purpose other than the reasonable intended use.

 

How To Handle Warranty Claims

Ride1UP will cover labor and parts within the 30-day period after purchase. Our credit for labor is based on a standard fee schedule for bike repairs and could be higher or lower than the cost at your local bike shop. You must wait for us to ship warrantied component rather than replacing on your own. Please allow 1-3 weeks for shipping replacement components. It is the owner’s responsibility to immediately inspect your bike on receipt, within 3 days.  Freight claims are time sensitive. To quickly resolve the issue the owner must send an email with a photo and/or video if appropriate to support@ride1up.com. We will make any necessary repairs to remedy the situation.

 

After 30-day free repair period Ride1UP will ship replacement parts within the year at no charge.  The owner will be responsible for labor. Warranty parts will be shipped in the U.S. only at our cost. It will be necessary to send an email with a photo and or video as appropriate to support@ride1up.com so we diagnose any issue.

 

Ride 1up reserves the right to make judgement determinations of proper use based on the evidence provided and may require additional photos and or videos of the item or issue in question.

 

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Specs and Testing

Our products have been tested for thousands of miles. We conducted our range and speed tests on flat, smooth, paved surfaces with no headwinds or tailwinds using an 170lb test rider and an optimally tuned bike. Any variables to this equation could cause a difference in actual results. Assembly and maintenance issues, such as low-pressure tires, misaligned brakes or wheels, or low battery power can make a significant impact on test results.  We do not exaggerate or make false claims regarding our product specifications and test results. If you are experience any issues regarding product performance, please contact us and we will work together to determine the issue. It is important to conduct any speed tests in a safe controlled environment, as the product speeds can be dangerous in a public setting.

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Articles

500 Series Owners Guide

Compatible Parts Upgrades and Replacements.

Rear Cargo Rack. There are many 3rd party options available. The 500 series do not have the standard mount top mounting point. To make nearly any rack compatible, a 31.8mm seat post clamp with rack mounts is needed. Then, nearly any standard cargo rack (sized for disc brakes) will work with the bike. The Ibera rack is a popular choice

Panniers. Ortlieb Classic RollersRide1UP Panniers.

Fenders. Portland Design Clip-on Wide FendersSKS Rear Fender. For other fenders, simply match the tire size of your bike (some models are different) in diameter and width. Ensure you order fenders sized for disc brakes.

SPEED/Gearing Upgrades. We put speed in CAPS. For many, this is vital! Increasing your gearing ratio well help you pedal more comfortably at speeds up to 28mph. We recommend installing an 11-28 DNP Epoch Freewheel in the back, and/or a 50T chainring in the front.  You likely don’t need to upgrade both, and the freewheel (not a CASSETTE!) is the better of the two to upgrade. Most 500 series generations had a 14-28 freewheel and either a 42T or 46T chainring.

Height Upgrades; Stem and Seat post. For riders 6’3” and above, depending on how you like to ride, it may be helpful to install and extended seat post (the stock post length is 350mm),400-500mm would help. 450mm Seat Post. The seat post diameter is 27.2mm.  Additionally, if you want the bars to be higher, and adjustable will allow the bars and grip height to be extended even higher. The handlebar diameter is 25.4mm. Adjustable Height Stem.

Tires.  Depending on your model type and generation, your wheels are either 700c, or 27.5”. The 700c tires are 28”x1.75” and can be replaced with tire widths ranging from 1.5”-2.2” (45mm-55mm). The diameter of the tire must stay the same. If you want to change your 27.5” tires, the same principle applies. Widths – 1.75”-2.5”

Tubes. Simply match the dimensions written on the sidewall of the tire.

MirrorsBar Clamp Mirror. Bar end mirrors are also easy to install and use.

Phone Mount. Yossi Bike Phone Mount.

EBS Brake Levers. A potential fix to the motor not working. If your electronic brake shutoff (EBS) is engaged, your motor won’t work. The magnets could be out of line. Find replacements with the same cable connectors. LINK

Trailers. Wee-hoo tow behind trailers. Asom Bike Trailer.

Car Racks, Lights, Baby Seats, and more.  Please view our owners group on Facebook and kindly contribute to fellow riders here with any additional recommended parts or upgrades. Please be respectful of the community.

 

Bike Security

Serial Number: Your bikes serial number is located on the bottom of the headtube. PLEASE, write this down or take a photo. We do not record your bikes serial number, and if your bike is stolen, you will need this.

Locking your bike:  Follow this guide on how to properly lock your bike. We recommend always using a U-lock. <LINK>

 

Common Assembly/Unboxing Issues

Fork and Headset.  Installing the fork and headset incorrectly can be very dangerous. Please be sure to watch our 500 series assembly video before assembling and other assembly videos on our YouTube Channel. If for any reason you get confused about the order of the headset pieces, this brief video should help clarify the order of the pieces.

Headlight. To turn on your headlight, make sure the two wires in the back are connected (try reversing the + and – if it doesn’t work), turn on the controller and hold the + button for 2 seconds.

Disc Brakes. How you install the front wheel can affect whether the disc brakes rub when first assembling. Look inline with the brake pads and slowly tighten the quick release axle while ensuring the rotor stays in the exact middle between the pads. The disc rotor is one of the most exposed malleable components during shipping. If it is bent, it can sometimes be trued (bent back) or replaced with a new disc rotor. LINK. You may also need new pads, but not likely within 1000 miles. LINK

Fenders. If you are experiencing rubbing or rattling fenders, this can be fixed. Firstly, the front fender tab that attaches to the fork can be mounted on the back to provide more spacing, or the front for a tighter fit. The fender arms are also malleable and sometimes need to be bent with the wheel off to be centered with the wheel.

Bent Derailleur Hanger. Firstly, please do not start riding and shift into 1st gear before checking the alignment of the derailleur and hanger. Especially if you hear the gears clicking. The derailleur will over-shift and the chain will get caught between the motor and the cog. This issue is common as we ship the derailleur installed and it is a light-weight malleable aluminum. It is also common among cyclists and can be fixed by straightening the derailleur hanger with force. As always, fancy tools/mechanics make it look easy. Here is a video. After the hanger is straightened, the derailleur/gears can be indexed (under adjustments) to remove any additional clicking or grinding noises. If you cannot fix the derailleur hanger, new ones can be found online. Ride1UP will cover the cost if it arrived bent.

Noise when riding. Refer to the three issues above. Fenders, gears, and brakes are the most common sources of riding noise. Additionally, the front hub can sometimes make a squeaking noise if it does not have enough grease. Pay attention to the noises. They are usually symptomatic of a minor issue that could cause more problems later on.

Crank Arm. The crank arm requires an 8mm hex wrench. It needs to be fully tightened. Ensure the arm is all the way on, fitting the square opening before tightening. If you have issue with it loosening, try adding blue Loctite.

 

Troubleshooting Problems

Motor not working. One of the worst problems to experience. What needs to be done? Determine the source, or cause of the issue(s). What to look for:

  • Cables; Is a connection loose? Look for kinked or loose or damaged cables. Check the quick disconnect connections, especially the one of the chainstay. Consider plugging them back in and ensuring pins are not bent.
  • Settings; Perhaps a setting was accidentally changed. Try plugging in the original base display, hold the + and – button for 3 seconds to reset to default, which may fix the issue.
  • Loosing power? Is the motor issue due to a loss of power or is the display and headlight maintaining power while the motor is not working? If the display is turning off, the problem is either with the internal controller, the battery, or the display itself.
  • EBS; Electronic Brake Shut-off. Another possible cause is that the electronic brake shut off sensors are firing when they shouldn’t be. This can happen typically when there is damage to the brake levers or the cables themselves causing a miscommunication with the internal controller. The best way to identify if this is the issue is to you unplug these cables from the internal controller and test. You can find the diagram for the internal wiring at the end of this document. Reference video for removing the controller.

 

Kickstand. Does the bike sit too low with the kickstand? The kickstand length is adjustable. Loosen the bolt on the bike and slide to the desirable length. Check the bolt tension when first assembling as well to make sure the bolt does not rattle loose. Is there a clicking noise with the kickstand? Make sure it is parallel with the chainstay and fully tightened (8mm hex wrench). If it shifts, it will hit the crank arm when pedaling.

Charger. Green light indicates the charger is powered but not charging. Red light, charging. Do not charge near anything flammable or store long-term the bikes plugged in. If you are having issues with the battery not charging, try riding the bike again, draining some battery and try using a different outlet. Then reach out to support.

Derailleur/Gears. Adjusting the gears on a bike so that there is no chain noise can be tricky for a novice. If you are not able to take the bike to a local shop, this is the absolute best guide we have seen in thoroughly explaining how to dial in year gears, check for issues, and ensure a silent chain and easy shifting.

 

Component Sizes

Handlebar. 25.4mm handlebar diameters and a 25.4” handlebar clamp. If you want to buy “oversize” 31.8mm bars, you will have to swap the stem as well for a 31.8mm bar clamp.

Seat post. 27.2mm seat post diameter with a 31.8mm seat post clamp.

Fork. 1 1/8”, or 28.6mm, which is the standard size.

Derailleur Hanger. Hanger #27

Wheels/tires. All current generations use a 27.5” wheel. For tire size, please check the sidewall of your tire.

 

Adjustments

Kickstand. Does the bike sit too low with the kickstand? The kickstand length is adjustable. Loosen the bolt on the bike and slide to the desirable length. It’s useful to check bolt tension when first assembling as well to make sure the bolt doesn’t rattle loose.

Gears. This process is simple enough, but not easy without experience. Here is a fantastic video guide.

Disc Brakes. Noisy rubbing brakes? Loose/weak brakes, or too much play on the levers? All this can be fixed with some adjusting. Again, not easy for the amateur. Luckily, here is another fantastic video guide.

 

LCD Display Features and Codes

Below is an explanation of symbols on the LCD display. This is the complete manual from the manufacturer of the display but is tough to translate at times.

LCD KM/H. To switch the display from kmh to mph, watch this.

Error Codes.

Screen Display Settings.

Symbols explained:

Reset to default settings. dEF represents recover default settings. The default value is N. To access recover default settings, hold both the UP and MODE button for 2s and press the UP/DOWN button to choose Y or N again. N means, do not recover default settings. Y means that recovers default settings. When it is Y, hold the MODE button for 2s to recover default settings, the display shows DEF-00 at the same time, and then return to general display state.

Recover Default Settings Interface. (image)

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Articles

Which Bike is Right For You?

Which eBike is right for you? The 500 Series vs 700 Series

Both the 500 and 700 series bikes are actually built with a very similar level of components. While on paper, the 700 series may seem like the better buy, the 500 series is not to be overlooked.

500 Series Pros

Comfort – The 500 series has fantastic frame geometry for those that fit the bill. It allows for upright stress-free touring unlike any other.

Agility – Light weight, compact bars, and grippy all-surface tires allow for quick sharp turns and easy maneuvering.

Value – Unbeatable; the 500 Series is the best performance to dollar value you can get.

Durability – While some of the components are simpler, they are also easy to maintain. Take care of it, and it will last decades.

500 Series Cons

Battery (Ah) Range – The stock battery is 3.5ah less than the 700 series, but there is the option to reverse that with the 17.5ah battery upgrade!

Look – While this is still a beautiful bike, when compared to the 700, we had to consider this a con.

700 Series Pros

Aesthetics – Yeah, pretty easy to see what were talking about here. You’ll get some head-turning stares.

Speed –  27mph top cruising speed vs the 500 Series 25mph cruising speed. On long straight roads, that may be very important.

Features – Hydraulic brakes, metal fenders, color screen, taillight. The 700 series offers some extras which aren’t always needed, but nice.

700 Series Cons

Weight – At 63lbs, the 700 series feels a little more bulky than the 500. Turns are going to feel a little bit more deliberate.

Battery Options – The 700 series does not have a battery size upgrade option. The fully integrated electronics do not allow for it.

 

Comparison

Model 500 Series 700 Series
Price $1,099.00 $1,499.00
MotorBafang 48V Geared HubShengyi 48V Geared Hub
  500W Motor 750W Peak500W Motor 1000W Peak
Battery (Voltage)48V Reention Durado48V Reention Rhino
Ah 10.4Ah14Ah
Range 25-5035-60
Controller 48V18A 48V22A Lishui Sine-wave Controller
Display Gray Scale LCDFull Color LCD
Brakes Mechanical TektroHydraulic Shimano
Front Suspension Suntour XCTHydraulic Lockout Suspension Fork
Wheels Kenda Kwick Seven.5 27.5″x2.2″ (650b)Schwalbe SUPER MOTO X 27.5×2.4 (584-60) tire
Cadence Sensor12 Magnet12 Magnet
Gearing7 speed7 speed
Chain Ring 48T Chainring 45 Tooth
Free wheel 14-28T Freewheel 11-32 Tooth
Pedal Assist0-9 Levels0-9 Levels
Front light Blaze-lite LEDBlaze-lite LED
Rear light xBlaze-lite LED
Fenders Available for purchaseIncluded
Rear Rack Available for purchaseIncluded
Speed 25mph27mph
Weight53lbs 63lbs

Staff Choice:

500 Series, Gold with Cafe Bars.

 

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Articles

How Efficient are Electric Bikes?

We’ve compiled the data on the most commonly used modes of transportation to find the cheapest, most efficient method of travel from point A to point B.

First, an explanation.

1) The data displayed below represents the energy cost, not the cost of ownership. The average automobile for example, has a 59-cent cost per mile according to AAA[4], but that is factoring ownership costs. Spending $70,000 on a Telsa may have other efficiency and environmental impacts that we are not going to measure here. Buying the cheapest product or “throwaway” electric products may also have a detrimental impact on the cost per mile and our environment. Again, we are not measuring those detrimental impacts.

2) For the Larger, multi-passenger vehicles like planes and trains, the MPG rating varies greatly depending on the number of passengers, or how effectively that mode is being utilized. We estimated figures based on average use in the United States.

3) The data represents not only the personal cost to pay for a mile of transportation, but also the environmental impact of the energy consumed. Whether consumed as electricity, petrol, or food, inefficient energy use will have a negative impact on the environment around us.

4) Walking Running and Biking. While these methods are also beneficial for your health. We are not factoring that in. Perhaps you already exercised during the day or are just trying to get to the gym. Our goal is simply to measure the efficiency of transportation, not what is good for your health. The cost to eat; another highly variable cost, but 80 cents per 100 calories is likely on the low side. The human body is not necessarily the cheapest generator.

*MPG = Miles Per Gallon (per person)
*CPM = Cost Per Mile (cents, USD)


175lb person
 Walking MPG = 660 CPM = 48

CPM – 90 calories per mile -30(to exist for 20 minutes)= 60 cals. At $.80 per 100cal, energy cost of walking = 48 cents per mile.

 Running MPG = 350 CPM = 88

CPM – 140 calories per mile -20(to exist for 12 minutes)= 110 cals. At $.80 per 100cal, energy cost of running = 88 cents per mile.

 Biking MPG = 880 CPM = 36

CPM – Moderate Cycling at 12 to 14 mph will burn 55 cals -10 cals(to exist for 5 minutes) = 45 calories. At $.80 per 100cal, energy cost of biking = 36 cents per mile.

 Driving (avg Car) MPG = 25 CPM = 10

CPM – 73 cents per mile calculated as a total expense per AAA, but in just energy cost, we take an average 25mpg vehicle with the national average of gas $2.37, to get, 10 cents per mile.

 Electric Car (Tesla) MPG = 126 CPM = 5

CPM – A topic of much debate, but an average energy use cost of 5 cents per mile.

 Train MPG = 72 CPM = n/a (too many variables)

CPM- There are too many variables here to even reflect an accurate cost. Our MPG estimate is taken from the department of energy and estimated based on Amtrak’s average capacity per train. The MPG estimates are per person. In European countries and areas with more efficient use, the cost per mile, and thus miles per gallon is likely a lot lower.

 Flying MPG = 43 CPM = 26

CPM- We are getting our data from Rome2Rio’s global flight data report. The MPG to fly as a passenger can be difficult to calculate. It very much depends on the efficiency of the airline, airplane, seat utilization, etc.

 Electric Bike (Ride1UP.com) MPG = 1667 CPM = 0.32

CPM- 500wh or .5 kwh will take you 25 miles only using the battery, no pedaling. Average cost of 16 cents/kw, that’s 8 cents, for 25 miles, or 0.32 cents to go a mile. MPG EQUATION: .5kwh = 0.015 Gallons of Gas. Which takes you 25miles. Which equals 1667 mpg.

 Electric Skateboard (Ride1UP.com) MPG = 1700 CPM = .3

CPPM- 270wh takes you 14 miles, See equation above. almost the exact same MPG as the electric bike. Nearly the same energy consumption per mile as electric bikes. Quick note regarding dock-less rental scooters. Maintenance fleets and or battery chargers have to drive around every 15 miles of riding to pick them up and charge them. Reducing their green impact.

There you have it. Your Ride1UP electric bike or board is more efficient and less impactful on the planet (excluding production/waste costs) than any other method measured; and by a long shot! To get one today, visit Ride1UP.com. Our core mission is promoting efficiency and affordable quality that will last.

 

Sources:

1) https://afdc.energy.gov/data/
2) https://www.verywellfit.com/walking-calories-burned-by-miles-3887154
3) https://www.runnersworld.com/training/a20801301/calories-burned-running-calculator/
4) https://newsroom.aaa.com/tag/driving-cost-per-mile/https://gasprices.aaa.com/
5) https://www.investopedia.com/articles/active-trading/041515/economics-owning-tesla-car.asp
6) https://www.livestrong.com/article/135430-calories-burned-biking-one-mile/
7) http://www.ebikeschool.com/much-power-electric-bicycle-need/
8) https://www.energuide.be/en/questions-answers/what-does-my-electric-bike-consume/1714/
9) https://chesterenergyandpolicy.com/2018/06/11/the-electric-scooter-fallacy-just-because-theyre-electric-doesnt-mean-theyre-green/
10) https://www.exploratorium.edu/cycling/humanpower1.html
11) https://truecostblog.com/2010/05/27/fuel-efficiency-modes-of-transportation-ranked-by-mpg/
12) https://www.rome2rio.com/labs/2018-global-flight-price-ranking/
13) https://www.calculateme.com/energy/kilowatt-hours/to-gallons-of-gas/

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Articles and Blogs

Hub vs Mid-Drive Motors

There has been a lot of debate over the use of hub motors vs mid-drive motors. The result has also led to a lot of misinformation. We designed our bikes with hub motors for good reasons. Below are three of the commonly debated issues when it comes to mid drive and hub motors. Hopefully this discussion will explain why we continue to equip our bikes with in-wheel hub motors.

1) Hub motors are simple.

Hub motors are the primary choice across Europe and the rest of the world due to their simplicity. With hub motors there are fewer moving parts, less maintenance, and not as much to replace. As a result, you can expect years of flawless performance without worrying about chains, belts, or cleaning the drive-train because hub motors are entirely sealed. This is not the case with mid-drive motors. Critics, including the American bike industry, will argue that basic tune-ups and flat tire repairs are more difficult with hub motors. This might be the case with motors that don't offer a cable disconnect next to the motor. That is why we added such a disconnect and thus made it easy to remove and replace the rear wheel. The only real inconvenience is the added 6lbs of motor weight to the wheel.

2) Weight Distribution. 

We've heard that mid drive motors better distribute the weight than hub motors. For the most part, unless you are downhill mountain biking, that difference is negligible. This is especially true if battery is located forward on the down-tube as it is on our bikes. Battery weight, which is typically more significant than the motor itself, offsets the added weight placed on the back wheel. When you ride a mid-drive compared to our bike, you typically won’t notice much difference in the weight distribution. 

3) Gear options with mid drives. 

Here is one of the actual benefits of mid drive motors. However, the major benefit is found mainly in climbing very steep hills. Our bikes are not designed for steep mountain terrain (and we don't recommend riding them in such terrain). Employing a mid-drive motor on our bikes would produce small benefits at a steep cost. In addition, having the motor built into the wheel hub allows for instant torque giving you a push even when your chain is off, if you happen to be in the wrong gear, or when you are starting from a dead stop. This torque can prove vital in intersection crossings or other dangerous situations, but it needs to be managed safely as the benefits can turn quickly to danger if the torque is not managed correctly and operated safely. 

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